Blades are commonly made in 1/4 inch lengths. Blades also have different widths and radii, as well as different configurations of the rocker (spinning area) and toe picks. These all have major effects on the way a blade "feels".
Figure skate blades start out in three separate parts. TOE plate. HEEL plate and the part that actually does the work on the ice. The blades are made from long strips of steel which vary in Carbon content depending on the quality of the particular skate blade that is being made. For instance, a Majestic would have a lower grade of steel than say a Phantom or Pattern 99. Although the steel used for all blades hardens to the same standard, the better grade would keep its edge longer (under equal conditions).
There are two methods of joining the parts together. John Wilson products are all silver soldered. Mitchell & King silver solder theirs, but the top quality blades such as Phantom, Gold Star etc. are hand brazed with bronze.
Buying new blades
The blade length is the measurement from the front of the sole plate to the back of the heel plate. Measure the length of the sole from toe to heel and fit blades which are 1/4 inch less in length.
Figure skaters new to the sport.... the most expensive blade isn't going to make you a better skater. Purchase the blade needed for your skate level and upgrade equipment as your needs change. For example, a skater may need to upgrade skates when they move from basic skating to their first jumps or from double to triple jumps.
Top of the line blades are designed for very advanced skaters. They have a longer radius, larger toe picks and the portion of the blade that is used for spinning is much shorter than on intermediate blades. So, unless you are perfectly balanced and positioned going into and during the spin you will start rocking on the blade. Intermediate blades like the MK Professional or Coronation Ace, etc. provide you more "room" to make corrections and continue spinning even if you are slightly off balance.
Mounting Blades
Improperly mounted blades are almost impossible to skate on. The blade must be correctly positioned and aligned on the boot. The boot heel & sole contours must be flush with the blade mounting surfaces to avoid twisting the blade.
Check For Mounting Problems
Check the blades to make sure they are straight, properly sharpened and mounted perpendicular to the sole. Have someone watch to see if your blades "make snow" as you try to skate on an edge. If they do, this may be a mounting problem and can be corrected by a slight shift of the blade mounting. You will need to tell the person remounting your blades which edges you are having trouble with.
You can also check if your blades are mounted correctly by yourself (you need recently sharpened blades for this test to ensure that the edges are even):
* Find a clean patch of ice, gather some speed and glide on two feet in a
straight line keeping your body upright with your feet directly under your
hips. Try this several times, both backwards and forwards.
* Go back and look at the the traces. If the blades are set correctly you
should get a set of double lines for each foot. If one of the lines is
consistently thicker than its mate (or if there is only one line), it means
that your weight on that blade falls predominantly on the edge tracing that
line and the blade is unbalanced.
* If you are leaning mainly on the inside edge, have the blade shifted to the
inside and vice-versa. You probably only need a small shift so try moving
it by 1or 2mm and then repeat the test.
K-pick
The K-pick design consists in a set of extra 3-4 picks to the standard toe-pick. This feature is supposed to provide more control and better anchorage to the ice on toe-jumps. According to blade manufactures, the jump height can increase by 5-10% and the jump length by about 20% on toe loops and flips. No significant improvements in height and length have been reported for the Lutz, although the improved stability on the take-off supposedly makes for more consistent jumps.
Parallel - Parabolic - Tapered Blades
Most skating blades have the same constant width along its full length the edges are Parallel. However, Parabolic blades are thinner in the middle section and thicker at both ends. This increases bite angle for reduced slippage on the ice. You can tell side honed blades because reflections appear inverted.
Tapered blades are thicker at the front near the toe picks and thinner at the tail, i.e. the edges are not parallel. Tapered blades reduce drag or friction on the ice. Some models or custom made blades can be both side-honed and tapered.
These modifications make the blade lighter (because of the removed steel) and supposedly provide a better grip on the ice. Whether they actually provide any real advantage is a matter of discussion.
Heel Lift
The clearance of the toe pick off the ice is determined by the heel lift. Knowing where your toe pick is in regards to the ice is one of the basics of ice skating. Many a skater has learned that tripping over their toe pick is NOT FUN! Higher heel lifts provide more clearance between toe picks and the ice, whereas lower heel lifts result in less clearance.
Blade Sharpening
Take your skates to a pro shop or ask some regular skaters at your rink where they get theirs sharpened. Skate sharpening is NOT a do-it-yourself project! Skates are expensive and it only takes one bad sharpening to turn them into scrap metal!
Skates properly sharpened will have a smooth concave grind accurately centered along the length of the blades, edges squared (parallel to the bottom of the boot) and level with each other (inside edge at same height as outside edge) for the length of the blade. Proper sharpening will maintain the correct rocker for the life of the blade.
Beware of how some shops do their sharpening: Some shops flat-grind the blade first, and then hollow grind. This wears the blade at an accelerated rate. Also be aware that some sports stores sharpen blades using techniques for hockey skates, which are not useful for figure skates and it can take only 1 bad grinding to ruin a pair of expensive blades.
Blade Maintenance
Always wear plastic guards should be worn any time you step off the ice. Even "safe" rubber mats or carpets accumulate dirt and grit from the shoes of pedestrians, which will nick and round off the fine edges of your blades much faster than gliding across the ice. Do not leave them on your skates between sessions as they will trap water and cause your blades to rust.
The cloth soakers are put on after you have removed your skates and wiped them dry with a rag. They protect your blades from bumping in transit and wick away any condensation so your blades won't rust. If you still have problems with rust or want to store your skates, rub a drop of oil or Vaseline along the bottoms of the blades.
